Unveiling Radon: History in Homes, Safety, and Value

July 15, 2024/0 Comments/in Homeownership, Radon

Radon: A Silent Threat in Your Home

In the world of buying and selling homes, there’s a hidden danger that can impact your health and home’s value: radon. At Realm Inspections, we make sure to uncover this danger during the home inspection process.

A Brief History of Radon

Radon, a radioactive gas, was discovered in 1899 by Ernest Rutherford, a physicist from New Zealand. It wasn’t until the mid-20th century that researchers began to understand its potential health risks. Radon is produced from the natural decay of uranium, which is found in varying concentrations in soil and rock. When radon enters a home through cracks and gaps in the foundation, it can accumulate to dangerous levels.

How Radon Was Discovered in Homes

There’s a story online about Stanley Waltras triggering radiation detectors at a power plant in Pennsylvania. This incident did happen in 1984, but it didn’t discover radon in homes. Radon was already known to be a health risk before this event.

Discovery of Radon: Radon’s risks were studied long before 1984, though it gained attention after incidents like Stanley Watras’.
Stanley Watras Incident: Stanley Watras didn’t discover radon in homes. His incident highlighted how radon can seep into homes from the ground.
EPA and Mitigation: The EPA did investigate and found radon in Watras’ home. This led to better sealing methods for homes.
Radon Levels in Homes: Homes in places like Colorado can have high radon levels due to local rocks. But saying half of Colorado homes have high levels needs accurate data.
Community Actions: Programs like free radon testing kits help people check and fix radon problems.

While these stories help raise awareness about radon, it’s important to get accurate facts. Radon can be a serious health risk, but it’s manageable with testing and fixes.

Radon’s Impact on the Real Estate Market

More home buyers now prioritize radon testing before purchasing a home. Radon, a radioactive gas from soil and rock, can seep into any type of foundation. Whether your home has a basement, crawlspace, or is built on a slab, if radon is present in the soil beneath your house, it can infiltrate your home’s living spaces. Homes with high radon levels may face challenges in selling, potentially affecting their sale price. Conversely, homes with low radon levels are often more attractive to buyers concerned about health and safety. It’s important to note that radon levels can change over time due to various factors, so regular testing is recommended to ensure ongoing safety and to take necessary mitigation steps if levels rise.

Why Choose Realm Inspections for Radon Testing?

At Realm Inspections, we specialize in thorough radon testing during home inspections. Our experts use the latest Constant Radon Monitor (CRM) devices to measure radon levels accurately. Testing during a home inspection gives you peace of mind about your home’s air quality. See more here.

The Benefits of Radon Testing

Health Protection: Radon is a leading cause of lung cancer after smoking. Testing helps you keep your family safe.
Property Value: Knowing your radon levels helps in negotiations and prevents future costly fixes.
Peace of Mind: A radon test from Realm Inspections ensures your home is a safe place for your loved ones.

Learn more about radon and new construction in our related blog post here.

At Realm Inspections, we’re committed to keeping you informed and your home safe. Contact us today to schedule your comprehensive home inspection and radon testing. Your family’s health and peace of mind are our top priorities.

Remember, when it comes to radon, knowledge is power. Let Realm Inspections help you make an informed decision about your home’s air quality.

Want to know if Realm can help you? Check out our Google Business page to learn about our service area and more!

The Benefits of Installing a UV Light in Your HVAC Air Handler

July 8, 2024/0 Comments/in Homeownership, HVAC

The Benefits of Installing a UV Light in Your HVAC Air Handler

Hey there, homeowners! At Realm Inspections, we want to help you keep your home safe and comfortable. One way to achieve this is by installing a UV light in your HVAC air handler. So, why is this important? Let’s dive into the benefits and how it works!

Why Install a UV Light?

Improved Air Quality: UV lights kill bacteria, mold, and viruses that can circulate through your HVAC system. This means cleaner air for you and your family.

Reduces Allergens: If someone in your home suffers from allergies, a UV light can help reduce the dust, mold, and pollen in the air, making it easier to breathe.

Prevents Mold Growth: Mold loves to grow in damp, dark places like your air handler. A UV light stops mold before it starts, keeping your system clean and running efficiently.

Energy Efficiency: A clean HVAC system doesn’t have to work as hard, which can save you money on your energy bills.

How Does It Work?

Installing a UV light inside your HVAC air handler is straightforward. Here’s a simple way to understand the process:

Turn Off the Power: Always turn off your HVAC system before starting any work.
Install the Light: Place the UV light in the air handler, usually near the coils or the air filter. This is where mold and bacteria tend to grow.
Connect the Power: Connect the UV light to your HVAC system’s power supply. This ensures it only runs when the system is on, saving energy.
Turn It On: Once everything is connected, turn your HVAC system back on. The UV light will start working immediately to clean the air.

Data Supporting UV Light Installation

Studies have shown that UV lights can kill up to 99.9% of harmful microorganisms in your HVAC system. Consequently, you can experience fewer illnesses, less mold, and a more comfortable living environment. For more information, check out this EPA guide on UVGI.

Why Choose Realm Inspections?

At Realm Inspections, we don’t just inspect homes; we offer additional services to make sure your home is safe and healthy. Our expert inspectors can check your HVAC system and determine if installing a UV light is right for you. Plus, we offer air quality testing to ensure your home is free of mold and other harmful pollutants.

Now what?

Want to breathe easier and keep your home safe? Contact Realm Inspections today to schedule your inspection to find out if installing a UV light in your system is right for you! Our friendly team is ready to help you improve your home’s air quality.

Remember, a healthier home is a happier home. Let Realm Inspections help you achieve that with our top-notch services. Call us now or visit our website to learn more!

For more information about mold and your home, check out our other articles:

General Home Inspections | Mold Inspections | Maintenance Inspections

Scout recommends you consider installing a UV light in your HVAC air handler!

Mold Remediation Techniques

July 1, 2024/0 Comments/in Homeownership

Mold Remediation Techniques

Understanding Mold Growth in Homes

Health concerns related to mold growth in homes have gained significant attention. Mold, thriving on moisture, oxygen, and suitable surfaces, can lead to various health issues from minor allergies to severe respiratory problems. Traditional methods like labor-intensive hand-scrubbing and sanding are being complemented by the more efficient technique of abrasive blasting for mold remediation.

Utilizing Abrasive Blasting for Mold Remediation

Abrasive blasting employs diverse media such as sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) or dry ice, propelled at high speed onto surfaces to effectively remove mold without damaging materials like wood or PVC. This method excels in cleaning irregular and hard-to-reach areas, such as attics and crawlspaces, where mold commonly thrives. Moreover, abrasive blasting significantly reduces project timelines compared to traditional methods.

Types of Abrasive Blasting: Soda and Dry-Ice Techniques

Soda-blasting, originally acclaimed for restoring the Statue of Liberty, utilizes sodium bicarbonate crystals that are gentle yet effective on surfaces. These crystals, propelled with compressed air, efficiently remove mold while minimizing debris and cleanup.

Dry-ice blasting, using solidified carbon dioxide pellets, creates micro-thermal shocks upon impact, effectively dislodging mold without causing damage. The process involves three phases: energy transfer, micro-thermal shock, and gas pressure, ensuring thorough elimination of mold and contaminants.

Integration with HEPA Vacuuming for Complete Remediation

While abrasive blasting removes visible mold, it can disperse mold spores into the air. HEPA vacuuming is crucial post-blasting to capture airborne particles, ensuring comprehensive remediation. This step prepares the area for re-testing, confirming the absence of mold spores. For more information on the importance of air quality testing, please refer to our related blog post on mold air testing.

Conclusion

Abrasive blasting, utilizing soda or dry ice, represents an innovative approach to mold remediation, offering efficiency and effectiveness while preserving surface integrity. Integrating abrasive blasting with HEPA vacuuming ensures thorough cleaning, promoting healthier indoor environments. For inspectors offering mold inspection services, understanding these advanced techniques is essential for guiding homeowners toward effective remediation strategies.

Explore our services to determine if you would benefit from remediation. Realm Inspections is here to provide information about how to best care for your home.

Expert Mold Air Testing Services | Realm Inspections

June 24, 2024/0 Comments/in Homeownership

Mold Air Testing: Ensure Your Home’s Air Quality with Realm Inspections

At Realm Inspections, we know that mold spores can be sneaky troublemakers, often hiding in plain sight. That’s why our mold air testing services are crucial for detecting and identifying the types of mold present in your home.

Why Take Air Samples?

Mold spores are invisible to the naked eye, and we identify mold types through laboratory analysis of air samples. This helps determine the scope and severity of a mold problem and assesses human exposure to mold spores. After remediation, new samples confirm successful mold removal.

How We Collect Air Samples

We use specialized pumps to force air through collection devices that catch mold spores. These samples are then sent to a laboratory for analysis. Many InterNACHI inspectors, including us, use air sampling as standard practice in mold inspections.

Types of Air-Sampling Devices

Impaction samplers: Use a calibrated air pump to impact spores onto a microscope slide.
Cassette samplers: Disposable devices that collect spores onto a media via forced air. These are the versions used by Realm Inspections.
Airborne-particle collectors: Trap spores directly on a culture dish to identify mold species.

When and How to Sample

We take air samples if we detect mold growth, moisture intrusion, water damage, or musty odors during our inspection. Even without visible signs, we might still take samples from the most lived-in room and the HVAC unit. Outdoor samples are also taken for comparison, usually from both the windward and leeward sides of the house.

Sampling Conditions

Ideal sampling spots include areas with suspected mold growth, moisture, or musty odors. Samples are taken near the room’s center, 3 to 6 feet off the ground. We run the air pump for about 10 minutes, adjusting if indoor activity might affect results. Samples are collected in closed conditions to stabilize the air and ensure accurate readings.

Weather Considerations

Weather can impact sampling accuracy. Severe storms or high winds can alter results by changing air pressure and increasing airborne spores. We aim to take samples under stable weather conditions for the best results.

The Practical Side of Air Sampling

Air sampling is a valuable tool but should be part of a comprehensive inspection strategy that includes visual checks and surface samples. It’s effective for background screening and detecting hidden mold. However, it needs careful setup to avoid skewed results due to varying indoor conditions.

In summary, air samples taken under controlled conditions are invaluable for comparing mold levels before and after remediation and ensuring your home’s air quality. Trust Realm Inspections for thorough and reliable mold air testing.

Changing the HVAC Filter

October 14, 2022/0 Comments/in Homeownership, HVAC

Homeowner Maintenance: Changing the HVAC Filter

Part of responsible homeownership includes, of course, regular home maintenance. And there are some tasks that, if deferred, can lead to a home system that’s inefficient and overworked, which can result in problems and expenses. One such task is changing the filter of the home’s HVAC system. It’s simple and inexpensive, and taking care of it at least every three months can mean the difference between optimum comfort and avoidable repairs.

What Can Go Wrong

Furnace filter old and new Most homes have some sort of furnace or heat pump, and many of those homes (especially newer ones) have combined heating, ventilation, and air-conditioning or HVAC systems. Each type uses some type of air filter or screen to prevent larger airborne particles (up to 40 microns) from entering the system and clogging sensitive machinery. A system that has a dirty filter can suffer from pressure drops. Pressure drops lead to reduced air flow, or “blow-out,” resulting in no air infiltration at all. Any of these conditions can cause the system to work harder to keep the home warm or cool (depending on the season and the setting). Any mechanical component that has to work harder to run efficiently puts undue stress on the whole system. A stressed system leads to premature failure, resulting in repair or replacement.

In addition, a dirty filter that comes into contact with condensation absorbs moisture, which leads to mold growth that spreads throughout the home by the HVAC system. Consequentially, this can lead to serious health consequences, not to mention a compromised unit that will likely require servicing and may require replacement, depending on the severity of the moisture problem.

Types of Filters

Furnace Filter Replacement Most HVAC and furnace filters are disposable, made of biodegradable paper or similar media, and shaped in cells, screens, or fins designed to trap as much airborne debris as possible. To save money, purchase filters in economical multi-packs. There are many types that fit different models of furnace/HVAC units. It’s important to use the appropriate filter for your unit. Using the wrong size filter creates the same types of problems as having a dirty filter. Your HVAC installer can show you where the filter goes and how to remove the old one and install a new one. If it comes down to it, your unit may also have an affixed label with directions for easy filter replacement.

MERV? Merv who?

If you’ve purchased filters, it’s likely you’ve run across the term MERV. Who…er, what is MERV? Minimum Efficiency Reporting Values. In layman’s terms, it’s the filter’s ability to capture larger particles between 0.3 and 10 microns (µm). Check out the EPA’s page for ratings and efficiencies. Essentially, the higher the MERV rating the more particles it filters from the air. Price is usually directly proportionate to the MERV rating. (Higher MERV = higher price.)

Which MERV is right for me?

There’s some debate as to which filter rating is the best. The fact of the matter is, it’s very subjective. Ask 10 different experts and you’ll get 10 different answers. From my perspective, you should weigh the variables in your life. How often do you run your system? How particular are you about indoor air quality (IAQ)? Do you have any pets? How big are those pets? Is your spouse disproportionality hairy? Do you have allergies? Are you allergic to your excessively hairy spouse? Are you concerned with the cost? Unless you have some underlying conditions or are just very particular about the IAQ in your home, stick with a filter that falls in the middle of the road. When changing the HVAC filter in my house, MERV 8 is my filter of choice. In my opinion, it offers the right balance of filtration and cost.

How Often?

Your HVAC or furnace technician should service your unit once a year. Because a furnace/HVAC unit contains moving parts, it’s important that belts are not cracked and dry, and ventilation ductwork is not gapped, cracked, or rusted. Components, such as coils and fans, should be clog-free and adequately lubricated for unimpeded operation. This sort of evaluation is best left to the professional unless the homeowner has had the appropriate training.

The filter of the unit, especially if it’s an HVAC unit that gets nearly year-round use, should be changed by the homeowner at least every three months, but possibly more often.

Check your filter’s condition and change it once a month if:

If your filter looks like this, change it.

You run your unit six months a year to year-round.
You have pets. Pet dander can become airborne and circulate through the home’s ventilation system just as typical household dust does.
You have a large family. More activity means more household dust, dirt, and debris.
You smoke indoors.
You or someone in your household suffers from allergies or a respiratory condition.
You live in a particularly windy area or experience high winds for extended periods. More so if there are no nearby shrubs or trees to provide a natural windbreak.
You live in an area prone to or having recently experienced any wildfires. Airborne ash outdoors will eventually find its way indoors.
You have a fireplace that you occasionally use.
You live on a working farm or ranch. Activity from field equipment and animals kicks up dust. Dust and dirt then pull into the home’s ventilation system.
You have a large garden. Depending on its size and how often you work it, gardening activity can contribute. This includes tilling the soil, planting, pulling weeds, using herbicides and pesticides, and even watering.
There is construction taking place around or near the home. You may be installing a new roof or a pool, or perhaps a neighbor is building a home or addition. Even if the activity is only temporary, dust and debris from worksites adjacent to or near the house can be sucked into the home’s ventilation system, and this increased activity can tax your HVAC system.

Change the filter immediately if:

The filter appears damaged. Regardless of how the damage occurs, a damaged filter that has bent fins, collapsed cells or holes will not work as well as an undamaged filter, especially if it allows system air to bypass the filter at any point.
The filter is damp. A filter affected by moisture intrusion, system condensation, or even high indoor humidity can quickly become moldy and spread airborne mold spores throughout the home via the ventilation system.
There is evidence of microbial growth or mold on the filter. Mold spores already infiltrating the home via the HVAC system are not only bad for the unit itself, but they can pose a health hazard for the family, ranging from an irritated respiratory system to a serious allergic reaction. The musty smell produced by a moldy HVAC filter is also unpleasant and may take a while to completely eradicate from inside the home. If you discover that you have a moldy air filter, it’s important to have the cause investigated further. An InterNACHI inspector or HVAC technician can help determine the problem so that it doesn’t recur.

Tips on Changing the HVAC Filter

Turn off the unit before replacing the filter.
Use the right filter for your unit
Follow the directions for your unit to make sure you’re installing the filter properly. For example, many filters use different colors for the front and back (or upstream and downstream flow). This prevents improper installation.
Make sure there aren’t any gaps around the filter frame. If this is the case, you may have the wrong size filter, or the filter itself may be defective or damaged.
Use a rag to clean up any residual dust before and after you replace the filter.
Securely replace any levers, gaskets, and/or seals.
Turn the unit on and observe it while it’s operating to make sure the filter stays in place.
Note the date of filter replacement in a convenient location for the next time you inspect it. A filter that becomes dirty enough to change within a short period of time may indicate a problem with the unit or ventilation system, so monitoring how often the filter requires changing is important information for your technician to have.

Call a technician for servicing if:

Your unit fails to turn back on.
The fan slows or makes excessive noise, or the fins appear bent.
The coils are excessively dusty or clogged.
You notice moisture intrusion from an unknown source anywhere in the system.

Homeowners who take care of the easy task of changing the HVAC filter can help prevent system downtime and avoidable expenses. Don’t forget the added benefit of keeping your family living and breathing comfortably. Your InterNACHI inspector can provide more useful tips and reminders during your annual home maintenance inspection. For other useful homeowner’s maintenance tips, check out our other blogs here.

Article written by InterNACHI with contributions from Nick Gromicko, CMI®, Kate Tarasenko, and Realm Inspections.

Winterizing your home

October 7, 2022/0 Comments/in Homeownership

Get your home ready for winter

Realm Inspections Winterization Checklist Fuquay Varina

Winterization is the process of preparing a home for the harsh conditions of winter. Here in the south, it’s less of a concern than up north, but that doesn’t make it any less important. Winterization is usually performed in the fall before excessive cold temperatures arrive. Winterization protects against damage from burst water pipes and heat loss from poor insulation and openings in the building’s thermal envelope. Realm Inspections understands how winterization works and gladly passes this information on to you. Check out the thumbnail for a quick list of things to do to get ready for winter.

Plumbing System

Water damage caused by bursting pipes during cold weather can be devastating. A ruptured pipe will release water and not stop until someone shuts off the water. If no one is home to do this, an enormous quantity of water can flood a house and cause thousands of dollars worth of damage. Even during very small ruptures or ruptures that are stopped quickly, water leakage can result in mold and property damage. Broken water pipes can be costly to repair, therefore winterization of the plumbing system becomes critical.

All exposed water pipes in cold areas, such as attics, garages, and crawlspaces, should be insulated. Foam or fiberglass insulation can be purchased at most hardware stores. Insulation should cover the entirety of a pipe.
Plastic is more tolerant of cold expansion than copper or steel. Houses in colder climates might benefit from the exclusive use of approved plastic plumbing.
The water supply for exterior pipes should be shut off from inside the house and then drained.
Sprinkler systems are particularly vulnerable to cracking due to cold-weather expansion. In addition to turning them, it helps to purge the system of any remaining water with compressed air.
Homeowners should be aware that much of the plumbing system travels through areas that are significantly colder than the rest of the house. Because it is impossible to monitor the temperature of every portion of the plumbing system, indoor air temperature should be kept high enough throughout the winter to keep pipes in any unheated places from freezing.

Leaks in the Building Envelope

Leaky window frames, door frames, and electrical outlets can allow warm air to escape into the outdoors.

Windows that leak will allow cold air into the home. Feeling for drafts with a hand or watching for horizontal smoke from an incense stick are a few easy ways to inspect for leaks. They can be repaired with tape or caulk.
On a breezy day, a homeowner can walk through the house and find far more leaks than they knew existed. Leaks are most likely in areas where a seam exists between two or more building materials.

Insulation

Because hot air rises into the attic, a disproportionately larger amount of heat is lost there than in other parts of the house. Like a winter hat that keeps a head warm, adequate attic insulation will prevent warm indoor air from escaping. Attic insulation should be 12 inches thick in cold climates.
Storm doors and windows should be installed to insulate the house and protect against bad weather.

Winterization and Heating Systems

Realm Inspections Fall House Fuquay Varina

The heating system is used most during the winter so it’s a good idea to make sure that it works before it’s desperately needed. The following inspection and maintenance tips can be of some help to homeowners:

Test the furnace by raising the temperature on the thermostat. If it does not respond to the adjustment quickly it might be broken.
Replace the air filter if it’s dirty.
If the furnace is equipped with an oil or propane tank, the tank should be full.

Cooling Systems

Use a hose to remove leaves and other debris from the outdoor condensing unit, if the home is equipped with one. Protect the unit with a breathable waterproof cover to prevent rusting and freezing of its components.
Remove and store window air conditioners when they are no longer needed. Cold air can damage their components and enter the house through openings between the air conditioner and the windowpane.
Ceiling fans can be reversed in order to warm air trapped beneath the ceiling to recirculate. A fan has been reversed if it spins clockwise.

Chimneys and Fireplaces

The chimney should be inspected for nesting animals trying to escape the cold. Squirrels and raccoons have been known to enter chimneys for this reason.
The damper should open and close with ease. Smoke should rise up the chimney when the damper is open. If it doesn’t, this means that there is an obstruction in the chimney that must be cleared before the fireplace can be used.
A chimney-cleaning service professional should clean the chimney if it has not been cleaned for several years.
The damper should be closed when the fireplace is not in use. An open damper might not be as obvious to the homeowner as an open window, but it can allow a significant amount of warm air to escape.
Glass doors can be installed in fireplaces and wood stoves to provide an extra layer of insulation.

Winterization and your Roof

If debris is left in gutters, it can get wet and freeze, permitting the formation of ice dams that prevent water from draining. This added weight has the potential to cause damage to gutters. Also, trapped water in the gutter can enter the house and lead to the growth of mold. For these reasons, leaves, pine needles, and all other debris must be cleared from gutters. This can be done by hand or with a hose.
Missing shingles should be replaced.

Landscape

Patio furniture should be covered.
If there is a deck, it might need an extra coat of sealer.

Adequate winterization is especially crucial for homes that are left unoccupied during the winter. This sometimes happens when homeowners who own multiple properties leave one home vacant for months at a time while they occupy their summer homes. Foreclosed homes are sometimes left unoccupied, as well. The heat may be shut off in vacant homes in order to save money. Such homes must be winterized in order to prevent catastrophic building damage.

In addition to the information above, InterNACHI advises the following measures to prepare an unoccupied home for the winter:

Winterize toilets by emptying them completely. Antifreeze can be poured into toilets and other plumbing fixtures.
Winterize faucets by opening them and leaving them open.
Water tanks and pumps need to be drained completely.
Drain all water from indoor and outdoor plumbing.
Unplug all non-essential electrical appliances, especially the refrigerator. If no electrical appliances are needed, electricity can be shut off at the main breaker.

Have your home assessed for winter

In summary, home winterization is a collection of preventative measures designed to protect homes against damage caused by cold temperatures. These measures should be performed in the fall before it gets cold enough for damage to occur. Have Realm Inspections come out and assess your home for you. We offer abbreviated inspections at a reduced rate for this service. Contact us today to get in front of the winter chill, schedule your Winterization Assessment here.

Article written by Nick Gromicko, CMI® and Kenton Shepard, InterNACHI

Aging in Place

September 29, 2022/0 Comments/in Homeownership

“Aging in place” is the phenomenon describing senior citizens’ ability to live independently in their homes for as long as possible. Those who age in place will not have to move from their present residence in order to secure necessary support services in response to their changing needs.

The Baby Boomers

As the baby boomers age, the 60+ population will spike from roughly 45 million in recent years to more than 70 million by 2020. Research shows that baby boomers’ expectations of how they will receive care differ from that of their parent’s generation. Overwhelmingly, they will seek care in their own homes and will be less likely to move into congregate living settings.

Why do many senior citizens prefer aging in place?

Nursing homes, too many, represent a loss of freedom and reduced quality of life. Here are a few good reasons why these fears are justified:

In 2007, inspectors received 37,150 complaints about conditions in nursing homes. Roughly one-fifth of the complaints verified by federal and state authorities involved the abuse or neglect of patients. Specific problems included infected bedsores, medication mix-ups, poor nutrition, and other forms of neglect.
The proportion of nursing homes cited for deficiencies ranged from 76% in Rhode Island to as high as 100% in Alaska, Idaho, Wyoming, and Washington, D.C.
Many cases have been exposed in which nursing homes billed Medicare and Medicaid for services that were not provided.
A significant percentage of nursing homes had deficiencies that caused immediate jeopardy or harm to patients.

Aging-in-Place Inspections

Inspectors may recommend corrections and adaptations to the home to improve maneuverability, accessibility, and safety for elderly occupants. Some such alterations and recommendations for a home are as follows:

Appliances:
- microwave oven in the wall or on the counter;
- refrigerator and freezer side by side;
- side-swing or wall oven;
- controls that are easy to read;
- raised washing machine and dryer;
- front-loading washing machines;
- raised dishwasher with push-button controls;
- stoves having electric cooktops with level burners for safely transferring between the burners; front controls and downdraft feature to pull heat away from user; light to indicate when surface is hot; and
- replace old stoves with induction cooktops to help prevent burns.
Bathroom:
- fold-down seat installed in the shower;
- adjustable showerheads with 6-foot hose;
- light in shower stall;
- wall support, and provision for adjustable and varied-height counters and removable base cabinets;
- contrasting color edge border at countertops;
- at least one wheelchair-maneuverable bath on the main level;
- bracing in walls around the tub, shower, shower seat, and toilet for installation of grab bars;
- if the stand-up shower is used in the main bath, it is curbless and wide;
- low bathtub;
- toilet higher than a standard toilet, or height-adjustable;
- design of the toilet paper holder allows rolls to be changed with one hand;
- wall-hung sink with knee space and panel to protect the user from pipes; and
- slip-resistant flooring in the bathroom and shower.
Counters:
- base cabinet with roll-out trays;
- pull-down shelving;
- wall support, and provision for adjustable and varied-height counters and removable base cabinets;
- upper wall cabinetry lower than conventional height;
- accented stripes on edge of countertops to provide visual orientation to the workspace;
- counter space for dish landing adjacent to or opposite all appliances;
- glass-front cabinet doors; and
- open shelving for easy access to frequently used items.
Exterior:
- low-maintenance exterior (vinyl, brick, etc); and
- low-maintenance shrubs and plants.
Entry:
- sensor light at exterior no-step entry focusing on the front-door lock;
- non-slip flooring in the foyer;
- accessible path of travel to the home;
- at least one no-step entry with a cover;
- entry door sidelight or high/low peep hole viewer; sidelight should provide both privacy and safety;
- doorbell in an accessible location; and
- a surface on which to place packages while opening the door.
Electrical, Lighting, Safety, and Security:
- install new smoke and CO detectors;
- install automated lighting, an emergency alert system, or a video-monitoring system;
- easy-to-see and read thermostats;
- light switches by each entrance to halls and rooms;
- light receptacles with at least two bulbs in vital places (exits, bathroom);
- light switches, thermostats, and other environmental controls placed in accessible locations no higher than 48 inches from the floor;
- move electrical cords out of the flow of traffic;
- replace standard light switches with a rocker or touch-light switches; and
- pre-programmed thermostats.

Faucets:

- thermostatic or anti-scald controls;
- lever handles or pedal-controlled; and
- pressure-balanced faucets.
Flooring:
- if carpeted, use low-density with a firm pad;
- smooth, non-glare, slip-resistant surfaces, interior and exterior; and
- color and texture contrast to indicate changes in surface levels.
Hallways:
- wide;
- well-lit; and
- fasten down rugs and floor runners, and remove any that are not necessary.
Heating, Ventilation, and Air Conditioning:
- install energy-efficient units;
- HVAC should be designed so filters are easily accessible; and
- windows that can be opened for cross-ventilation and fresh air.
Miscellaneous:
- 30-inch by 48-inch clear space at appliances, or 60-inch diameter clear space for turns;
- multi-level work areas to accommodate cooks of different heights;
- loop handles for easy grip and pull;
- pull-out spray faucet;
- levered handles;
- in multi-story homes, laundry chute or laundry facilities in master bedroom;
- open under-counter seated work areas; and
- placement of task lighting in appropriate work areas.
Overall Floor Plan:
- main living on a single story, including a full bath
- 5-foot by 5-foot clear turn space in the living area, kitchen, bedroom, and bathroom, and
- no steps between rooms on a single level.
Reduced Maintenance and Convenience Features:
- easy-to-clean surfaces;
- built-in recycling system;
- video phones;
- central vacuum;
- built-in pet feeding system; and
- intercom system.
Stairways, Lifts, and Elevators:
- adequate hand rails on both sides of the stairway
- residential elevator or lift, and
- increased visibility of stairs through contrast strip on top and bottom stairs, and color contrast between treads and risers on stairs with the use of lighting.
Storage:
- lighting in closets;
- adjustable closet rods and shelves; and
- easy-open doors that do not obstruct access.
Windows:
- plenty of windows for natural light;
- low-maintenance exterior and interior finishes;
- lowered windows, or taller windows with lower sill height; and
- easy-to-operate hardware.

Advice for those who wish to age in place:

Talk with your family about aging-in-place
- Do you want to downsize to a smaller single-family home, or do you plan to stay put in your traditional family home?
Take a look at your finances and retirement funds.
- With your current savings and assets, will you be able to pay for home maintenance? Consider starting a separate retirement savings account strictly for home maintenance.
Remodel your home before your mobility becomes limited.
- As you age, changes in mobility, hearing, vision, and overall health and flexibility will affect how easily you function in your home. Consider making your home “age-friendly” as a phased-in and budgeted home improvement, rather than waiting until you need many modifications at a time due to a health crisis.
- If you decide before you retire that you want to live in your current home through the remainder of your life, consider paying for “big ticket – long life” home projects while you still have a healthy income. Such items may include having the roof assessed or replaced, replacing and upgrading the water heater or cooling unit, completing termite inspections and treatment, having a septic tank inspection and replacement, as needed, and purchasing a riding lawn mower.

In summary

Aging in place is a way by which senior citizens can avoid being dependent on others due to declining health and mobility. InterNACHI advocates healthy living, as it plays a vital role in your ability to age in place. Most seniors leave their homes due to functional and mobility limitations that result from medical crises, and an inability to pay for support to stay with them in their homes. Effectively managing health risks and maintaining a healthy lifestyle can help you stay strong, age well, and live long at your own home.

Aging-in-Place Home Inspections

Do you or a loved one wish to live out their days in the comfort of their own home? We’ll be glad to inspect the home to make sure they are set up for success. Schedule an aging-in-place inspection with Realm Inspections today!

For additional information, check out InterNACHI’s Aging-in-Place flyer.

Article by Nick Gromicko, CMI® and Kate Tarasenko

Dead Valleys on your Roof

January 10, 2022/0 Comments/in Homeownership, Roof

“Dead valleys”, sound ominous, don’t they?

Well, when it comes to your roof, dead valleys are kind of subjective. Let Realm Inspections explain from our perspective. One thing to keep in mind is that we don’t call out dead valleys as a deficiency in a home inspection report. Why? Simply stated, it is a design element that originates with the designer or architect. The inclusion of these elements is in part due to complex rooflines and layouts of the floorplans of the home.

What is a dead valley?

Dead valleys are where multiple roof slopes converge

You keep using these words, so what the heck do they mean? Dead valleys are where multiple roof slopes converge. But what does that mean exactly? Well, as mentioned above, is a design element of the roof on a home. It is where two or more roof planes or roof planes and sidewalls converge in such a way that they concentrate water runoff to a small area. Think of them as a funnel. You will typically see them collecting debris on a roof surrounded by trees. You may also notice a deluge of water pouring off your roof at the base of one of these valleys during a storm

The Problem

Tree debris collecting in a roof valley

1. Debris Accumulation: The most obvious issue with a dead valley is the collection of debris. Trees shed their leaves, twigs, pollen husks, nuts, acorns, amongst other things. In a perfect world, the rain will wash the debris off the roof. However, this area will create a bottleneck that traps the debris. This trapped debris holds water against the covering, gradually deteriorating the shingles and shortening the roof’s useful life.
2. Construction Challenges: Older homes may face construction challenges with dead valleys. Improper installation of roofing layers can result in water leakage. Modern advances have improved construction, but older homes may not benefit from these advancements. New construction inspections confirm these roof sections are properly built.
3. Erosion: High volumes of water rushing down from dead valleys can cause erosion. This can lead to damage to landscaping, splash-back on less durable siding, and even affect windows and doors if not properly managed.
4. Water at the Foundation: Excessive moisture near the foundation due to dead valleys can lead to foundation issues. Soil movement around the foundation can result in differential settlement and hydrostatic pressure, destabilizing the foundation.

What can I do?

Wide channels to account for high volumes of water from a dead valley

Aside from being on the design team when the plans were drafted for your home, not much can be done about dead valleys. However, you can:

Develop a maintenance routine to keep debris from building up.
Ensure proper water drainage away from the foundation using gutters, downspouts, diverter heads, and other drainage systems.
Aim to discharge water a minimum of 4-6 feet away from the foundation wall to prevent water damage.

When it comes to a dead valley on your roof, vigilance is key.

If you are in need a professional home inspector in Fuquay Varina or the surrounding Raleigh, NC market, contact Realm Inspections for the best in home inspection services! But I already own my home. Perfect! We are big advocates of proactive homeownership. Get in front of any potential hardships and have us perform a Home Maintenance Inspection on your home. Schedule today!

Smoke Detector Types, Which One to Use?

October 15, 2021/0 Comments/in Electrical, Homeownership

Smoke detector located on the ceiling If you didn’t already know, the two most commonly recognized smoke detector types are ionization smoke detection and photoelectric smoke detection. Oh, and just an FYI, do not confuse “photoelectric” with “photochemical” as I did. They are not the same. The latter is the technology used in Carbon Monoxide (CO) detectors… which I’ll save for another post.

So, Ionization vs Photoelectric, which smoke detector types are right for me? Is there really a difference?

To answer the first question, it depends. To answer the second question, yes there really is. Here’s the truth, you can ask 10 different people and get 10 different opinions. From my seat, I think response time is the ultimate qualifier. While both respond to fire in relatively short order, it’s the smoldering fire (no flame) that is the deciding factor for me. Most people know that the #1 killer of fires is smoke inhalation, not the flames. So wouldn’t we err on the side of caution and go with the technology that detects smoke the fastest? The simple answer, yes, of course, we would. And for that reason, photoelectric should be the clear winner. However, it is important to acknowledge that not all fires are smoldering fires. So, with that consideration, a device comprising both technologies would be the absolute winner.

Now, just like everything else that is good for us, there is a cost associated with the different technologies. Photoelectric is more expensive than ionization, and combination units are more expensive than all others. Ultimately, cost should be the least of your concerns when outfitting your home with smoke detection devices. For me and my loved ones, combination units are the ones going in my home.

Hate reading? Check out this 5-minute video demonstrating the different smoke detector types. It may just save your life!

Let’s take a deeper dive into the different smoke detector types.

• Ionization smoke alarms

The most common smoke detector types (usually due to cost) are Ionization smoke alarms. These are generally more responsive to fires with visible flames or environments heavily saturated with smoke.
How they work: Ionization-type smoke alarms have a small amount of radioactive material between two electrically charged plates. These plates ionize the air and cause current to flow between the plates. When smoke enters the chamber, it disrupts the flow of ions, thus reducing the flow of current and activating the alarm. Download this chart on ionization smoke alarms.

• Photoelectric smoke alarms

Smoldering couch fire from lit cigarette

Photoelectric smoke alarms are generally more responsive to fires that begin with a long period of smoldering (called “smoldering fires”). Think of a cigarette that may not have been fully extinguished and dumped in the trash. Another example is that of an overheating appliance that doesn’t actually burn but smokes before a flame is present.

How they work: Photoelectric-type alarms aim a light source into a sensing chamber at an angle away from the sensor. Smoke enters the chamber, reflects the light onto the sensor, thus triggering the alarm. Download this chart on photoelectric smoke alarms.

The U.S. Fire Administration (USFA) is aware that there is a controversy about smoke detector types and which is most appropriate to protect people in their homes.

The body of scientific knowledge about fire, smoke, and smoke detection has developed over many years and is quite extensive. The USFA has either fully or partially funded a number of research efforts. These include a recent study by the National Institute of Standards and Technology’s (NIST) Center for Fire Research. Other contributors to this data include the Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC), the National Fire Protection Association, Underwriters Laboratories, the Home Fire Safety Council, the Residential Fire Safety Institute, the Home Fire Sprinkler Coalition, and distinguished academics with expertise in smoke alarm and sensor technology.

The body of research reflects the following:

There are two types of smoke alarms in general use for home smoke alarms, Photoelectric and Ionization. These smoke alarms sense the prese nce of smoke differently.
The type of smoke produced by fire depends on the type of fire. Flaming fires produce a different type of smoke than smoldering fires.
Both smoke alarms will detect the smoke from either a smoldering fire or a flaming fire. It has been established and well known for many years that:
- Ionization smoke alarms tend to respond faster to the smoke produced by flaming fires than photoelectric smoke alarms.
- Photoelectric smoke alarms tend to respond faster to the smoke produced by smoldering fires than ionization smoke alarms.
In some full-scale fire tests, the difference in the time to alarm between ionization and photoelectric smoke alarms was found to be trivial. In other full-scale fire tests, the difference in response time was considerable.

Based on this information, the USFA provides guidance to the public and to state and local legislative bodies. Either body may be grappling with the issue of determining which smoke detector types to select for residential use. Their guidance includes:

We cannot state that one type of alarm is better than another because every fire is different.
Because both ionization and photoelectric smoke alarms are better at detecting distinctly different yet potentially fatal fires, and because no one can predict what type of fire might start in a home, the USFA recommends that every home and place where people sleep be equipped with either
- both ionization and photoelectric smoke alarms, or
- dual sensor smoke alarms (which contain both ionization and photoelectric smoke sensors).
The location of a smoke alarm within a home may be more important than the type of smoke alarm present, depending on the location of a fire. The USFA recommends that users follow the manufacturer’s guidance along with current standards on the recommended location of smoke alarms in a home.

To wrap this up

For each of the smoke detector types, the advantage they provide may be critical to life safety in some fire situations. Fatal home fires, day or night, include a large number of smoldering fires and a large number of flaming fires. You cannot predict the type of fire you may have in your home or when it will occur. Any smoke alarm technology, to be acceptable, must perform for both types of fires in order to provide sufficient warning. Regardless of the type of fire, for all times of the day or night, and whether you are asleep or awake.
For the best protection, use both types of smoke alarm technologies.

Choosing the Right Home Inspector

September 28, 2021/0 Comments/in Homeownership

Buying a home? It’s probably the most expensive purchase you’ll ever make. This is no time to shop for a cheap inspection. The cost of a home inspection is very small relative to the value of the home being inspected. The additional cost of hiring an InterNACHI-Certified Professional Inspector® is almost insignificant.

You have recently been crunching the numbers, negotiating offe

rs, adding up closing costs, shopping for mortgages, and trying to get the best deals. Don’t stop now. Don’t let your real estate agent or anyone else talk you into skimping here. InterNACHI-certified inspectors perform the best inspections by far.

InterNACHI-certified inspectors earn their fees many times over. They do more, they deserve more, and — yes — they generally charge a little more. Do yourself a favor… and pay a little more for the quality inspection you deserve.

The licensing of home inspectors only sets a minimum standard. Even though required in the state of North Carolina, being licensed is really only akin to the price of admission. Much like being up to code, any less would be illegal. Imaginary people, children, psychics (who claim to “sense” if a house is OK), and even pets can theoretically be home inspectors. InterNACHI, the International Association of Certified Home Inspectors, front-ends its membership requirements.

InterNACHI inspectors must:

Pass InterNACHI’s Online Inspector Examination, and re-take and pass it every three years
Complete InterNACHI’s online Code of Ethics Course
Take InterNACHI’s online Standards of Practice Course
Submit a signed Membership Affidavit
Carry E&O Insurance (also required by NC Home Inspector Licensing Board);
Adhere to InterNACHI’s Standards of Practice
Abide by InterNACHI’s Code of Ethics
Submit four mock inspection reports to InterNACHI’s Report Review Committee before performing their first paid home inspection for a client if the candidate has never performed a fee-paid home inspection previously
Within the first year of membership, Inspectors must successfully pass the following accredited courses and exams provided through InterNACHI:
- “Safe Practices for the Home Inspector”
- “25 Standards Every Inspector Should Know”
- “Residential Plumbing Overview for Inspectors”
- “How to Perform Residential Electrical Inspections”
- “How to Perform Roof Inspections”
- “How to Inspect HVAC Systems”
- “Structural Issues for Home Inspectors”
- “How to Perform Exterior Inspections”
- “How to Inspect the Attic, Insulation, Ventilation, and Interior”
- “How to Perform Deck Inspections”
- “How to Inspect for Moisture Intrusion”
- “How to Inspect Fireplaces, Stoves, and Chimneys”
Pursue inspection-related training by taking 24 hours of additional accredited Continuing Education each year
Maintain Online Continuing Education Log, per InterNACHI’s rigorous Continuing Education policy

All InterNACHI Certified Inspectors have access to:

Global Message Board for exchanging information and tips with colleagues and experts
“What’s New” section so that they can keep up with the latest news and events in the inspection industry
Time-tested Inspection Agreement, which keeps them (and you) away from lawsuits
Report Review/Mentoring Services
Real estate agent Hold-Harmless Clause
Many other benefits, training, marketing tools, and information to help themselves, as well as consumers and real estate professionals.

So, the next time you need a home inspector (or need to refer your clients to one), make sure the Inspector is a member of InterNACHI.

Radon: A Silent Threat in Your Home

A Brief History of Radon

How Radon Was Discovered in Homes

Radon’s Impact on the Real Estate Market

Why Choose Realm Inspections for Radon Testing?

The Benefits of Radon Testing

Why Install a UV Light?

How Does It Work?

Data Supporting UV Light Installation

Why Choose Realm Inspections?

Now what?

For more information about mold and your home, check out our other articles:

Mold Remediation Techniques

Understanding Mold Growth in Homes

Utilizing Abrasive Blasting for Mold Remediation

Types of Abrasive Blasting: Soda and Dry-Ice Techniques

Integration with HEPA Vacuuming for Complete Remediation

Conclusion

Why Take Air Samples?

How We Collect Air Samples

Types of Air-Sampling Devices

When and How to Sample

Sampling Conditions

Weather Considerations

The Practical Side of Air Sampling

Homeowner Maintenance: Changing the HVAC Filter

What Can Go Wrong

Types of Filters

MERV? Merv who?

Which MERV is right for me?

How Often?

Check your filter’s condition and change it once a month if:

Change the filter immediately if:

Tips on Changing the HVAC Filter

Call a technician for servicing if:

Get your home ready for winter

Plumbing System

Leaks in the Building Envelope

Insulation

Winterization and Heating Systems

Cooling Systems

Chimneys and Fireplaces

Winterization and your Roof

Landscape

Have your home assessed for winter

The Baby Boomers

Why do many senior citizens prefer aging in place?

Aging-in-Place Inspections

Appliances:

Bathroom:

Counters:

Exterior:

Entry:

Electrical, Lighting, Safety, and Security:

Faucets:

Flooring:

Hallways:

Heating, Ventilation, and Air Conditioning:

Miscellaneous:

Overall Floor Plan:

Reduced Maintenance and Convenience Features:

Stairways, Lifts, and Elevators:

Storage:

Windows:

Advice for those who wish to age in place:

Talk with your family about aging-in-place

Take a look at your finances and retirement funds.

Remodel your home before your mobility becomes limited.

In summary

Aging-in-Place Home Inspections

“Dead valleys”, sound ominous, don’t they?

What is a dead valley?

The Problem

What can I do?

So, Ionization vs Photoelectric, which smoke detector types are right for me? Is there really a difference?

Hate reading? Check out this 5-minute video demonstrating the different smoke detector types. It may just save your life!

Let’s take a deeper dive into the different smoke detector types.

• Ionization smoke alarms

• Photoelectric smoke alarms

The U.S. Fire Administration (USFA) is aware that there is a controversy about smoke detector types and which is most appropriate to protect people in their homes.