The Housing Market Is Stuck on the Monthly Payment

Why does the housing market feel stuck when people still need somewhere to live? Buyers face payments they cannot comfortably carry, owners hesitate to surrender inexpensive mortgages, and builders can use financing incentives to bridge part of the gap. Mortgage rate lock-in helps explain the standoff. I inspect both new and existing homes, and I approach this from the ownership side: the payment gets someone into the house, but it does not describe everything they are taking on.

Aerial view of detached homes, residential streets, yards, and surrounding woodland.
A neighborhood view provides context for the housing discussion. The photograph does not establish current prices, inventory, or financing terms.

Buyers are shopping for a payment they can live with

A listing price is the beginning of the affordability calculation. The household budget has to absorb principal, interest, property taxes, insurance, applicable mortgage insurance, and any association dues. Cash for the down payment and closing costs is another hurdle. Maintenance does not disappear because getting through closing was expensive.

The rate difference is substantial. Freddie Mac reported a national average of 7.28% for a 30-year fixed mortgage on October 1, 2026. That benchmark describes a particular conventional purchase-loan population, not a guaranteed rate for an individual buyer.

For a simpler illustration, consider a $400,000 loan amortized over 30 years. The following figures show monthly principal and interest only. These are hypothetical rates, not lender offers.

Illustrative monthly principal and interest on a $400,000, 30-year fixed-rate loan
Interest rate Monthly principal and interest
3.5% $1,796
5.0% $2,147
7.0% $2,661

The difference between 3.5% and 7% is about $865 each month before the other ownership costs enter the picture. The same loan amount buys the same house in this example. The financing makes it feel like a different purchase.

For a household already stretched by rent, childcare, transportation, or uncertain income, delaying a purchase can be a rational decision. Calling that buyer unmotivated does nothing to improve the arithmetic.

A mortgage below four percent can make staying feel compulsory

An owner with a fixed mortgage below 4% may want a different house and still dislike the cost of moving. Selling generally means paying off the existing loan. Financing the replacement can mean borrowing at a higher rate, possibly on a larger balance.

This is the lock-in effect examined in FHFA research published in 2024: a growing gap between an owner’s existing rate and the market rate discourages sales and limits mobility. That finding explains an incentive, not every household’s decision.

Equity can help fund the next purchase, but it does not automatically make the new payment comfortable. A job change, divorce, accessibility need, or growing family may still force the move. Others can postpone it. The house may no longer fit particularly well, but the mortgage fits beautifully.

Builders can change the financing offer

A builder has a different decision to make. A completed home is inventory to sell. The builder is not deciding whether to give up the inexpensive mortgage on the place where the family lives.

In its August 2026 market release, the National Association of Home Builders specifically identified mortgage rate buydowns among the incentives supporting new-home sales. Financing assistance gives a builder another way to address a buyer’s monthly budget.

The illustration above shows why the approach gets attention. On the same $400,000 loan, 5% produces a principal-and-interest payment about $514 below the payment at 7%. That difference can matter more immediately to a household than a modest change in the advertised price. It does not establish what obtaining that rate would cost or whether a particular buyer qualifies.

Existing-home sellers can also contribute toward eligible financing costs, subject to the loan program’s rules. This is not an exclusive builder privilege. My reading of the advantage is that builders can make financing assistance part of the sales package, while an individual seller is also trying to protect the proceeds needed for the next move.

A permanent rate reduction and a temporary buydown do different jobs

A permanent buydown uses an upfront cost to obtain a lower mortgage interest rate. On a fixed-rate loan, that lower note rate applies for the remaining loan term. The Consumer Financial Protection Bureau explains that discount points exchange higher closing costs for a lower rate. One point costs 1% of the loan amount; it does not automatically reduce the rate by one percentage point.

A temporary buydown subsidizes the borrower’s early payments. The underlying note rate remains in place. In a hypothetical 2-1 buydown on a 7% fixed-rate loan, the borrower initially pays amounts calculated at 5%, then 6%, before paying the full 7% payment from year three. The subsidy supplies the difference during the introductory period.

Fannie Mae’s temporary-buydown requirements preserve the mortgage note’s permanent terms and require qualifying the borrower at the note rate. Those requirements apply to loans covered by its guide; other loan programs have their own rules.

The distinction is consequential. One arrangement changes the fixed interest rate. The other changes how much of the early payment the borrower supplies. Both can have value. A two-year subsidy should not be described as thirty years of cheaper borrowing.

An incentive is evidence of competition

Builders have a useful tool, but saying they are universally winning overstates the evidence. In NAHB’s September 2026 survey, 66% of builders reported sales incentives and 38% reported price cuts. Builder confidence fell to 32, below the index’s neutral threshold of 50.

That is a picture of businesses working to secure sales in difficult conditions. An incentive can help win a contract while reducing what the seller keeps from it. The benefit to the buyer and the pressure on the builder can exist at the same time.

Those figures are national. They do not establish the price trend or negotiating position for a specific neighborhood in Fuquay-Varina, Raleigh, Cary, or Holly Springs. A broad market explanation still has to meet the particular house and the actual offer.

The attractive payment needs the rest of the story

A financing offer has several moving parts: the sale price, loan type, down payment, fees, cash required at closing, and payment after any subsidy ends. An incentive may carry lender, eligibility, property, or closing-date conditions. The written terms determine its value.

The CFPB’s financing guidance emphasizes comparing offers with and without temporary relief. APR can help explain borrowing costs, while the payment schedule shows what the household will owe over time. An advertised low initial rate may also belong to an adjustable-rate loan, which follows a different set of future rate changes.

I am skeptical of any affordability story that needs a future refinance to finish the math. A lower rate later is a possibility. It is not a term the buyer can put into today’s contract.

The house still has to make sense after the incentive ends

The payment conversation is necessary. It can also consume so much attention that the physical house becomes background scenery.

From an inspection perspective, a financing concession tells me nothing about drainage, installation quality, accessible structure, or how the equipment operates. A favorable mortgage does not document those conditions. That is the work of evaluating the house and producing a useful inspection report.

The market’s frustration becomes easier to understand when viewed through the monthly payment. Buyers face the cost of entering. Owners weigh the cost of leaving. Builders can spend money to narrow that gap. The meaningful win is a home whose financing and condition still make sense after the sales incentive has done its job.

Sources and context

Market figures are dated within the article and were checked October 5, 2026. They describe national conditions, not a local appraisal or a prediction of future mortgage rates. Payment examples use standard monthly amortization, are rounded to the nearest dollar, and exclude taxes, insurance, association dues, and other ownership costs.

Sources linked above include Freddie Mac’s October 1, 2026 mortgage survey; FHFA’s mortgage lock-in research; NAHB’s August and September 2026 releases; CFPB explanations of discount points and financing options; and Fannie Mae’s temporary-buydown guidance.

Common questions about mortgage rates and builder incentives

Does a mortgage below four percent prevent an owner from selling?

No. It creates a financial reason to stay when replacement borrowing would cost more. Personal circumstances, equity, income, and the next home’s price also affect the decision.

Does a temporary buydown permanently lower the mortgage rate?

No. It subsidizes payments for a defined period. The mortgage note and buydown agreement establish the ongoing obligation and the subsidy terms.

Can an existing-home seller offer financing assistance?

Yes, where the loan program permits seller contributions. The permitted amount and uses depend on the transaction and program requirements.

Does a builder incentive make new construction the better purchase?

Not automatically. Its value depends on the complete financing terms, price, location, condition, and fit for the buyer’s needs.

My Disdain for Open-Concept Living

By Joe Boos, Certified Master Inspector® and NC Licensed Home Inspector

Is open-concept living actually better, or has it just been marketed that way?

Sometimes it works. Often, it doesn’t. In many homes, open-concept living layouts introduce problems with noise, privacy, clutter, and function that aren’t obvious in listing photos. After years of walking through real houses, not renderings or staged showpieces, I’ve come to see open-concept not as a universal upgrade, but as a default choice that’s rarely questioned.

That’s where my skepticism comes from.

People praise open-concept living for light, flow, and flexibility. Those benefits are real. But they come with tradeoffs that the people who actually live there quietly absorb. And more often than not, the design choice itself feels less intentional and more like the path of least resistance.

The Death of Functional Identity

When the kitchen, living room, and dining room combine into one uninterrupted space, you don’t end up with three rooms. You end up with one oversized zone trying to perform three very different roles.

Cooking.
Relaxing.
Eating.
Entertaining.
Working.
Existing.

Each function competes with the others. Furniture placement becomes a negotiation. Lighting has to compromise. Storage never quite lands where it should.

I jokingly refer to them as the “klining” room, but the critique is serious. The space loses its identity. Rooms used to tell you what they were for. Now, open-concept asks the occupants to figure it out on the fly… every single day.

Acoustics Were an Afterthought

Open-concept homes are loud. Not in an obvious way, but in a slow, cumulative way.

The blender runs.
The TV is on.
Someone’s on a call.
Someone else is cooking.

Without walls, sound has nowhere to go but everywhere. Hard surfaces, high ceilings, and wide spans only make it worse. You don’t notice it during a walkthrough. However, you notice it when you live there and realize there’s no quiet place left in the house.

Here’s the thing: walls don’t just divide space. They absorb sound. When designers remove them, they usually don’t redesign acoustics to compensate.

Cooking Smells Don’t Respect “Flow”

In an open-concept layout, the kitchen doesn’t stay in the kitchen.

Whatever you cook becomes part of the entire house. Ventilation helps, but it rarely solves the issue completely. Strong smells linger. Light smells travel. Yesterday’s dinner greets you the next morning.

Boundaries matter. Walls offer one of the simplest and most effective boundaries we have, and removing them has consequences that get downplayed because they aren’t glamorous.

Visual Clutter Becomes Permanent

In a traditional layout, a messy kitchen is just a messy kitchen.

In an open-concept home, it’s the backdrop to everything.

Every dish in the sink.
All appliances on the counter.
Each unfinished task.

There’s no visual separation, no place to rest your eyes. The space demands constant tidiness to feel calm, which works great in photos and far less well in real life. Most households don’t live like a magazine spread… no matter how good their intentions are.

Privacy Was the First Casualty

Walls provide more than structure. They create separation, both physical and psychological.

Open-concept layouts remove the ability to:

  • Close a door
  • Retreat without leaving the space entirely
  • Be present without being involved

This becomes more obvious as homes take on more roles. Work-from-home didn’t pair well with open-concept living. Neither does a household where people operate on different schedules or energy levels.

Sometimes people don’t want to be together. They want to be nearby but separate. Unfortunately, open-concept doesn’t allow for that gracefully.

Furniture Placement Is Always a Compromise

People often describe open spaces as “flexible,” but in practice they’re awkward.

Couches float.
Rugs define imaginary rooms.
Traffic paths cut straight through seating areas.

Instead of designing around comfort, you design around circulation. The room tells you where furniture can’t go more than where it should. Walls give furniture something to work with. Without them, everything feels temporary… even when it isn’t.

It’s Great for Photos. Less Great for Living.

Open-concept homes photograph beautifully.

Wide angles.
Clean sightlines.
Natural light everywhere.

They sell an idea, and that idea performs exceptionally well online. But houses aren’t static images. People live in them. Use them. Test them.

What looks expansive in a listing can feel exposed once the novelty wears off. The difference between a good photograph and a good home becomes clear after the first few months.

Lazy Design and the Loss of a Home’s Soul

This is the part people don’t like hearing.

In many cases, open-concept design feels lazy. Not always, but often.

Instead of thoughtfully arranging rooms, transitions, and proportions, designers remove walls and declare the problem solved. The result is a space that technically checks boxes but lacks character, intention, and hierarchy.

Homes used to have rhythm. Movement. Moments of compression and release. Spaces felt distinct yet connected. When everything opens up indiscriminately, that rhythm disappears.

It’s lazy design that detracts from the soul of a home.

My Honest Take

Open-concept living isn’t inherently wrong. It’s just wildly overused.

It works for some households.
It frustrates others.
And people frequently adopt it without asking the most important question:

How do you actually live in your house?

Walls aren’t the enemy. Thoughtless design is.

And sometimes the most meaningful improvement you can make isn’t tearing walls down… it’s understanding why they were there in the first place.

Common Questions About Open-Concept Homes

What is meant by open-concept?

Open-concept typically refers to a floor plan where the kitchen, living room, and dining room share a single open space with few or no interior walls. The idea emphasizes sightlines, light, and shared space rather than separation by function.

Why is open-concept so popular?

Open-concept layouts photograph well, feel larger during walkthroughs, and align with modern real estate marketing. Psychologically speaking, it gives off the illusion of grandeur… “you’re not cool unless your home is open-concept.”  People often choose them by default rather than as a response to how they actually live in their homes.

What is the difference between open-concept and closed-concept?

An open-concept plan prioritizes visual and physical openness, while a closed-concept plan uses walls and doors to separate rooms by function. Closed layouts give you more control over noise, privacy, and visual clutter, while open layouts emphasize connection and flow.

About the Author
Joe Boos is a Certified Master Inspector®, Licensed Home Inspector, and owner of Realm Inspections. He has spent decades working in and around residential construction and evaluates homes for a living. This perspective comes from inspecting real homes as they’re actually lived in, not from idealized plans or marketing renderings.

Unveiling Radon: History in Homes, Safety, and Value

Why Radon Became a Household Concern

The 1984 Stanley Watras incident helped bring residential radon to wider public attention. As described in the August 1986 EPA Journal, Watras triggered a radiation monitor while entering work at a Pennsylvania nuclear power plant. Investigators found unusually high radon in his home. Earlier research had already identified radon hazards in miners and some houses; this incident increased attention to naturally occurring radon in homes.

What a Test Can Tell You

A radon test provides information about the measured conditions during the collection period. It is not a guarantee of permanent safety or a complete indoor-air-quality assessment. A general visual home inspection does not establish a radon level; arrange radon testing as a specific service.

EPA recommends action at 4 pCi/L or above and consideration of reduction between 2 and 4 pCi/L. No exposure level is known to be risk-free. See EPA’s explanation of its action level for context, and discuss follow-up with a qualified radon professional.

Use Results in Your Home-Buying Decisions

Ask for the test date, collection conditions and any documentation of an existing mitigation system. Allow time to review findings and arrange follow-up before your transaction deadlines. Test results do not guarantee a particular sale price, seller concession or future repair cost.

Scheduling Radon Testing with Realm

Realm’s radon testing requires at least 48 hours of collection under the required test conditions. Reports are typically available 5–7 business days after the inspection or monitor deployment. This is separate from the home inspection report, expected by the end of the next business day after the inspection, barring unusual circumstances.

Review our radon testing service and discuss the property, access and deadlines when booking. For a newly built home, see radon-resistant construction and testing questions.

Contact or schedule with Realm Inspections to confirm the services appropriate for your property.

The Benefits of Installing a UV Light in Your HVAC Air Handler

A UV light in an HVAC air handler may help control microbial growth on certain internal surfaces, but its value depends on the equipment and installation. It is not a substitute for moisture control, filtration or routine HVAC maintenance.

What can UV light do?

Ultraviolet germicidal irradiation (UVGI) uses ultraviolet energy to inactivate susceptible microorganisms. A lamp aimed at a cooling coil or drain pan treats exposed surfaces; that is different from a system designed to treat moving air. Ask which purpose a proposed product is designed and tested for.

The EPA explains that properly designed equipment may control some biological growth, but typical residential units have limited effectiveness against bacteria and molds. Exposure requirements vary, and dead mold spores can still trigger allergies. A blanket “99.9%” claim does not establish performance throughout your home or prove that occupants will experience fewer illnesses. See the EPA explanation of UV lamps and mold.

What UV light does not replace

UV light does not physically capture dust or pollen. Continue using the filter type and replacement schedule appropriate for your HVAC system. A UV accessory also does not fix leaks, excess humidity, blocked drainage or existing mold contamination. Address those causes and arrange appropriate cleaning or remediation.

Do not assume an installation will reduce utility bills or allergy symptoms. Ask for evidence applicable to the proposed model and your system, along with its electrical use, lamp replacement costs and maintenance requirements. The EPA Guide to Air Cleaners in the Home explains filtration, moisture-control limitations and ozone concerns.

Installation and maintenance questions

Have a qualified HVAC contractor assess compatibility and follow the equipment manufacturer’s instructions. This is not a generic do-it-yourself wiring project. Lamp placement, shielding, controls, operating schedule and service access depend on the product and air handler.

  • Is the system intended for coil treatment or airborne microorganisms, and what testing supports that use?
  • How will people be protected from UV exposure during operation and servicing?
  • Does the equipment generate ozone? Avoid devices that intentionally produce ozone for use in occupied spaces.
  • What cleaning, replacement and safe-disposal schedule does the manufacturer require?
  • Will installation affect the air handler’s components or warranty?

Do not look directly at an operating UV-C lamp or expose skin to it. Follow the manufacturer’s shutdown and servicing precautions; switching off the thermostat should not be treated as proof that every accessory is de-energized. The FDA’s ultraviolet radiation guidance describes UV-C eye, skin and ozone hazards.

How Realm Inspections can help

A home inspection can document accessible HVAC conditions and concerns within the agreed inspection scope. It does not measure UV disinfection performance, design an HVAC upgrade or certify that indoor air is free of pollutants. An HVAC contractor should evaluate equipment selection and installation.

If moisture or suspected mold is the concern, review our mold inspection service and discuss the appropriate scope before scheduling. Sampling, when agreed upon, reflects the sampled locations and conditions; it cannot guarantee that a home is mold-free or predict an individual’s health response.

Schedule an inspection or contact Realm to discuss the property and your concerns.

Related reading

General Home Inspections | Maintenance Inspections

Scout, Realm Inspections mascot

Mold Remediation: Methods, Moisture and Follow-Up Questions

Mold remediation starts with understanding and correcting the moisture problem. The appropriate cleanup method depends on the affected material, extent of growth and site conditions. No single technique should be presented as a guarantee of damage-free cleaning or complete removal of every mold spore.

Address moisture and affected materials

The EPA’s home mold-cleanup guidance emphasizes correcting water problems and drying affected items. It explains that some porous materials may need to be discarded and that cleaning may not restore the original appearance.

Ask how a proposed method fits the job

If a contractor proposes abrasive blasting, surface cleaning, material removal or another method, ask why it suits the affected materials and conditions. Request a written explanation of the work area, protection of surrounding spaces, debris handling, moisture correction and completion criteria. A technique’s name alone does not establish that it is appropriate for your property.

Choose help for the circumstances

EPA advises checking a cleanup contractor’s experience and references. It also identifies contaminated-water damage and suspected HVAC contamination as situations requiring particular care. Follow the relevant EPA guidance and discuss the conditions with an experienced professional. Consult a health professional about personal health concerns before cleanup.

Define what follow-up will establish

Discuss how completion will be assessed before work begins. An air sample does not establish that a building contains no mold spores. EPA notes that federal airborne mold limits have not been set; sampling cannot demonstrate compliance with such a threshold. See EPA’s sampling guidance and our explanation of mold air sampling and its limitations.

Inspection and remediation are separate

Realm’s mold inspection and sampling service addresses assessment questions within an agreed scope. This article does not describe a Realm remediation service. Contact Realm to discuss the concern, available assessment options and their limitations.

Mold Air Sampling: Uses, Limits and Questions to Ask

Mold air sampling can help answer a defined question about a collected sample. It does not certify that a home is mold-free, measure every indoor-air pollutant or determine whether the home is safe for a particular person. Start by discussing the moisture concern and what you need the testing to establish.

Is sampling always needed?

No. The EPA’s mold-testing guidance says visible mold usually does not require sampling. It also explains that no federal airborne mold limits have been established, so a sample cannot demonstrate compliance with a federal mold threshold.

What should a sampling plan address?

Discuss the question being investigated, the locations and types of samples, the conditions during collection and how the laboratory findings will be interpreted. EPA recommends using professionals experienced in sampling design, methods and interpretation.

Do not assume that a general air sample is a complete survey of concealed materials or every room. Ask what the selected samples represent and what they cannot establish.

Questions to ask before booking

  • What moisture concern or observation is prompting the request?
  • Would visual assessment or a different sample type be more useful for the question?
  • Which locations and samples are included in the agreed scope?
  • What preparation and access are needed?
  • How will the results, limitations and possible follow-up be explained?

What about suspected hidden mold?

EPA cautions that investigating concealed mold can disturb affected material and release spores. Its sampling and hidden-mold guidance recommends considering an experienced professional when hidden growth is suspected. A sample should not be treated as permission to disturb materials yourself.

How Realm can help

Explore Realm’s mold inspection and sampling service, then contact us with the property address, the concern and the purpose of the assessment. Confirm the current sampling scope and preparation before scheduling. Remediation is separate from sampling, and any follow-up assessment should have its own defined purpose.

Changing the HVAC Filter

Homeowner Maintenance: Changing the HVAC Filter

Part of responsible homeownership includes, of course, regular home maintenance.  And there are some tasks that, if deferred, can lead to a home system that’s inefficient and overworked, which can result in problems and expenses.  One such task is changing the filter of the home’s HVAC system.  Check the filter regularly and follow the equipment and filter manufacturers’ replacement instructions.

What Can Go Wrong

Furnace filter old and new A dirty or clogged filter can restrict airflow and reduce system performance. The Department of Energy explains why filter selection and installation matter. If the filter is wet or you suspect microbial growth, have an HVAC professional investigate the moisture source; replacing the filter alone may not resolve the problem.

Types of Filters

Furnace Filter Replacement Most HVAC and furnace filters are disposable, made of biodegradable paper or similar media, and shaped in cells, screens, or fins designed to trap as much airborne debris as possible.  To save money, purchase filters in economical multi-packs.  There are many types that fit different models of furnace/HVAC units.  It’s important to use the appropriate filter for your unit.  Using the wrong size filter creates the same types of problems as having a dirty filter.  Your HVAC installer can show you where the filter goes and how to remove the old one and install a new one.  If it comes down to it, your unit may also have an affixed label with directions for easy filter replacement.

MERV?  Merv who?

If you’ve purchased filters, it’s likely you’ve run across the term MERV.  Who…er, what is MERV?  Minimum Efficiency Reporting Values.  In layman’s terms, it’s the filter’s ability to capture larger particles between 0.3 and 10 microns (µm).  Check out the EPA’s page for ratings and efficiencies.  Essentially, the higher the MERV rating the more particles it filters from the air.  Price is usually directly proportionate to the MERV rating.  (Higher MERV = higher price.) 

Which MERV is right for me?

Choose a filter with the correct dimensions and a rating your system can accommodate. Ask your HVAC professional or consult the equipment manufacturer before changing filter type or increasing filtration. A higher rating is not automatically suitable for every system. See EPA’s guide to air cleaners and HVAC filtration.

How Often?

Your HVAC or furnace technician should service your unit once a year.  Because a furnace/HVAC unit contains moving parts, it’s important that belts are not cracked and dry, and ventilation ductwork is not gapped, cracked, or rusted.  Components, such as coils and fans, should be clog-free and adequately lubricated for unimpeded operation.  This sort of evaluation is best left to the professional unless the homeowner has had the appropriate training.

Check the filter monthly and replace or clean it according to its condition and the manufacturer’s instructions. Disposable and washable filters need different care. ENERGY STAR’s maintenance checklist recommends monthly filter attention.

Conditions that may require closer monitoring include:

  • dirty HVAC filter

    If your filter looks like this, change it.

    You run your unit six months a year to year-round.

  • You have pets.  Pet dander can become airborne and circulate through the home’s ventilation system just as typical household dust does.
  • You have a large family.  More activity means more household dust, dirt, and debris.
  • You smoke indoors.
  • You or someone in your household suffers from allergies or a respiratory condition.
  • You live in a particularly windy area or experience high winds for extended periods.  More so if there are no nearby shrubs or trees to provide a natural windbreak.
  • You live in an area prone to or having recently experienced any wildfires.  Airborne ash outdoors will eventually find its way indoors.
  • You have a fireplace that you occasionally use.
  • You live on a working farm or ranch.  Activity from field equipment and animals kicks up dust.  Dust and dirt then pull into the home’s ventilation system.
  • You have a large garden.  Depending on its size and how often you work it, gardening activity can contribute.  This includes tilling the soil, planting, pulling weeds, using herbicides and pesticides, and even watering.
  • There is construction taking place around or near the home.  You may be installing a new roof or a pool, or perhaps a neighbor is building a home or addition.  Even if the activity is only temporary, dust and debris from worksites adjacent to or near the house can be sucked into the home’s ventilation system, and this increased activity can tax your HVAC system.

Change the filter immediately if:

  • The filter appears damaged.  Regardless of how the damage occurs, a damaged filter that has bent fins, collapsed cells or holes will not work as well as an undamaged filter, especially if it allows system air to bypass the filter at any point.
  • The filter is damp.  A filter affected by moisture intrusion, system condensation, or even high indoor humidity can quickly become moldy and spread airborne mold spores throughout the home via the ventilation system.
  • There is evidence of microbial growth or mold on the filter.  Mold spores already infiltrating the home via the HVAC system are not only bad for the unit itself, but they can pose a health hazard for the family, ranging from an irritated respiratory system to a serious allergic reaction.  The musty smell produced by a moldy HVAC filter is also unpleasant and may take a while to completely eradicate from inside the home.  If you discover that you have a moldy air filter, it’s important to have the cause investigated further.  An InterNACHI inspector or HVAC technician can help determine the problem so that it doesn’t recur.

Tips on Changing the HVAC Filter

  • Turn off the unit before replacing the filter.
  • Use the right filter for your unit
  • Follow the directions for your unit to make sure you’re installing the filter properly.  For example, many filters use different colors for the front and back (or upstream and downstream flow).  This prevents improper installation.
  • Make sure there aren’t any gaps around the filter frame.  If this is the case, you may have the wrong size filter, or the filter itself may be defective or damaged.
  • Use a rag to clean up any residual dust before and after you replace the filter.
  • Securely replace any levers, gaskets, and/or seals.
  • Turn the unit on and observe it while it’s operating to make sure the filter stays in place.
  • Note the date of filter replacement in a convenient location for the next time you inspect it.  A filter that becomes dirty enough to change within a short period of time may indicate a problem with the unit or ventilation system, so monitoring how often the filter requires changing is important information for your technician to have.

Call a technician for servicing if:

  • Your unit fails to turn back on.
  • The fan slows or makes excessive noise, or the fins appear bent.
  • The coils are excessively dusty or clogged.
  • You notice moisture intrusion from an unknown source anywhere in the system.
Furnace Filter Change Homeowners who take care of the easy task of changing the HVAC filter can help prevent system downtime and avoidable expenses.  Don’t forget the added benefit of keeping your family living and breathing comfortably.  Your InterNACHI inspector can provide more useful tips and reminders during your annual home maintenance inspection.  For other useful homeowner’s maintenance tips, check out our other blogs here.

Winterizing your home

Get your home ready for winter

Realm Inspections Winterization Checklist Fuquay Varina

Winterization is the process of preparing a home for the harsh conditions of winter. Here in the south, it’s less of a concern than up north, but that doesn’t make it any less important.  Winterization is usually performed in the fall before excessive cold temperatures arrive. Winterization protects against damage from burst water pipes and heat loss from poor insulation and openings in the building’s thermal envelope. Realm Inspections understands how winterization works and gladly passes this information on to you.  Check out the thumbnail for a quick list of things to do to get ready for winter.

 

Plumbing System

Water damage caused by bursting pipes during cold weather can be devastating. A ruptured pipe will release water and not stop until someone shuts off the water. If no one is home to do this, an enormous quantity of water can flood a house and cause thousands of dollars worth of damage. Even during very small ruptures or ruptures that are stopped quickly, water leakage can result in mold and property damage. Broken water pipes can be costly to repair, therefore winterization of the plumbing system becomes critical.

  • All exposed water pipes in cold areas, such as attics, garages, and crawlspaces, should be insulated. Foam or fiberglass insulation can be purchased at most hardware stores.  Insulation should cover the entirety of a pipe.
  • Ask a plumber about protecting vulnerable pipes; pipe material alone does not eliminate freezing risk.
  • The water supply for exterior pipes should be shut off from inside the house and then drained.
  • Have an irrigation professional winterize the sprinkler system using the procedure appropriate for its equipment.
  • Homeowners should be aware that much of the plumbing system travels through areas that are significantly colder than the rest of the house. Because it is impossible to monitor the temperature of every portion of the plumbing system, indoor air temperature should be kept high enough throughout the winter to keep pipes in any unheated places from freezing.

Leaks in the Building Envelope

Leaky window frames, door frames, and electrical outlets can allow warm air to escape into the outdoors.
  • Windows that leak will allow cold air into the home. Feeling for drafts with a hand or watching for horizontal smoke from an incense stick are a few easy ways to inspect for leaks. They can be repaired with tape or caulk.
  • On a breezy day, a homeowner can walk through the house and find far more leaks than they knew existed. Leaks are most likely in areas where a seam exists between two or more building materials.

Insulation

  • Have insulation needs assessed for the home’s construction, climate and existing materials. A single thickness recommendation does not suit every insulation product or attic.
  • Storm doors and windows should be installed to insulate the house and protect against bad weather.

Winterization and Heating Systems

Realm Inspections Fall House Fuquay Varina The heating system is used most during the winter so it’s a good idea to make sure that it works before it’s desperately needed. The following inspection and maintenance tips can be of some help to homeowners:
  • Test the furnace by raising the temperature on the thermostat. If it does not respond to the adjustment quickly it might be broken.
  • Replace the air filter if it’s dirty.
  • If the furnace is equipped with an oil or propane tank, the tank should be full.

Cooling Systems

  • Follow the equipment manufacturer’s outdoor-unit maintenance instructions. Heat pumps operate during winter and need unobstructed airflow; do not wrap an operating unit. Ask your HVAC professional before covering any outdoor equipment.
  • Remove and store window air conditioners when they are no longer needed. Cold air can damage their components and enter the house through openings between the air conditioner and the windowpane.
  • Ceiling fans can be reversed in order to warm air trapped beneath the ceiling to recirculate. A fan has been reversed if it spins clockwise.

Chimneys and Fireplaces

Arrange an annual chimney inspection and cleaning as needed by a qualified chimney professional. Follow the appliance instructions for dampers, doors and operation. Smoke entering the room calls for stopping use and professional evaluation, not an assumption that there is only a blockage. See CSIA’s homeowner guidance.

Winterization and your Roof

  • If debris is left in gutters, it can get wet and freeze, permitting the formation of ice dams that prevent water from draining. This added weight has the potential to cause damage to gutters. Also, trapped water in the gutter can enter the house and lead to the growth of mold. For these reasons, leaves, pine needles, and all other debris must be cleared from gutters. This can be done by hand or with a hose.
  • Missing shingles should be replaced.

Landscape

  • Patio furniture should be covered.
  • If there is a deck, it might need an extra coat of sealer.

Homes Left Unoccupied

Before leaving a home vacant, arrange a property-specific plan with qualified plumbing and HVAC professionals. Avoid a blanket utility shutdown: heat, pumps and other protective systems may need power. Do not add unspecified antifreeze to plumbing fixtures.

For ordinary cold-weather absences, the American Red Cross recommends leaving heat on at no lower than 55°F. This is not a guarantee that every exposed pipe will stay warm. Arrange monitoring and address vulnerable areas.

Have your home assessed for winter

In summary, home winterization is a collection of preventative measures designed to protect homes against damage caused by cold temperatures. These measures should be performed in the fall before it gets cold enough for damage to occur.  Have Realm Inspections come out and assess your home for you.  We offer abbreviated inspections at a reduced rate for this service.  Contact us today to get in front of the winter chill, schedule your Winterization Assessment here.