Built to Code: It’s just a Four-Letter Word

By Joe Boos, Certified Master Inspector® and NC Licensed Home Inspector

What does it mean to be built to code?

Built to code means a structure meets the minimum legal requirements adopted by a local jurisdiction at the time of construction.

What makes a building “up to code”?

A building is considered up to code when it complies with the specific standards in effect when it was built or last permitted, not necessarily current standards. Code compliance is contextual and time-bound, not universal or permanent.

Let me say this plainly, because dancing around it helps no one.

Building code is not the best way to build a home.
It’s the cheapest way you can build one and still be allowed to occupy it.
And building to it is the bare minimum you can legally get away with.

That distinction matters.

Code is a starting point. A floor. A line in the sand that says, “Below this, we’re not comfortable letting people live here.” And that’s fine… as far as it goes. The problem is that too many people treat that floor like a ceiling.

They shouldn’t.

The Myth of “Built to Code”

Homebuyers hear “built to code” and assume it means well-built. Safe. Thoughtful. Durable.

It doesn’t.

It means legal.

Code-compliant construction is not optimized for longevity, comfort, performance, or resilience. It’s optimized for minimum acceptable risk at minimum acceptable cost. There is almost always a better way to do something, better materials, better detailing, better sequencing, better protection.

But better costs more.

And in a capitalist system, builders are going to do what makes economic sense. That’s not evil. That’s math.

Margins matter. Timelines matter. Shareholders matter. And when you’re building thousands of homes a year, shaving a few dollars here and there adds up fast.

I don’t fault builders for that.
I fault the narrative that equates minimum with good.

Knowing What’s Right vs. Doing What’s Right

Here’s the uncomfortable truth most people don’t like to hear:

Knowing the better way and choosing not to do it are two different things.

Most competent builders, trades, and inspectors know there’s a better approach. We’ve seen what fails. We know what lasts. And we understand why there are callbacks, moisture problems, comfort complaints, and premature wear.

But better means:

• More labor
• Different materials
• More time
• Lots More money

Those things don’t show up well on a spreadsheet.

That’s why homes pass (municipal) inspections every day and still have preventable issues baked into them from day one.

Why Inspectors Shouldn’t Be Code Police

This is where I’ll probably ruffle a few feathers.

Home inspectors shouldn’t be citing code in their reports.

Code enforcement is for jurisdictions. Inspectors exist to talk about safety, function, and risk, not to play gotcha with section numbers.

When I point something out, it’s not because a paragraph somewhere says it’s wrong. It’s because I:

• Have seen it fail
• Know someone will get hurt
• Understand that water, heat, or movement do what physics allows it to do and always does

I don’t care if something technically squeaks by. I care whether it makes sense for the person who has to live with it.

My job, during the home inspection, is to help homeowners understand where things could be safer, more durable, or simply less annoying to own over time.

That perspective only comes from experience. And inspectors have plenty of it.

“But Isn’t Code About Safety?”

You’d think so. And sometimes it is.

But let’s be honest.

Code exists primarily to limit risk exposure.
Not yours. The insurance industry’s.

When a particular construction method, material, or design results in repeated losses, fires, claims, injuries, lawsuits, you can bet someone starts paying attention. If insurers bleed enough money, pressure builds. Standards change. Language gets updated. Congratulations… you’ve just watched a code cycle in action.

If that update also improves occupant safety, great. Truly.
But that’s a byproduct, not the primary driver.

Insurance companies don’t care about you or me. They care about predictability and loss mitigation. Code is a tool to control both.

The Takeaway

Code is not evil.
Builders are not villains.
Inspectors are not crusaders.

Everyone is operating within a system that rewards efficiency over excellence.

But homeowners deserve to know this:

“Built to code” is not the compliment you think it is.
It’s the minimum someone was willing to do.

There is almost always a better way.
It just costs more.

And whether that premium is worth it…
That’s a decision every homeowner should make with eyes wide open.

If you are building or thinking of building a new home in the greater Raleigh/Durham NC market, I’d love to be your inspector to see if we can do better than just “built to code”!  Contact Us to see if we’re the right fit for your construction project.  Schedule today!

Common Questions About “Built to Code”

What does it mean to build to code?

Building to code means a structure meets the minimum legal requirements adopted by a local jurisdiction at the time of construction. It does not imply best practices, optimal performance, or long-term durability. It simply means the home passed the minimum threshold required for occupancy.

What makes a building “up to code”?

A building is considered up to code when it complies with the specific standards in effect when it was built or last permitted, not necessarily current standards. Code compliance is contextual and time-bound, not universal or permanent.

Do old houses have to be up to code?

No. Older homes are typically grandfathered under the standards that existed when they were constructed. They are not required to be updated to modern standards unless significant renovations or permitted changes trigger compliance requirements.

What is “code” in construction?

Construction code is a set of minimum performance and safety benchmarks developed to reduce risk, standardize practices, and limit liability. It establishes what is legally acceptable, not what is ideal or best for occupants.

Joe Boos is a Certified Master Inspector® and NC Licensed Home Inspector. After inspecting thousands of homes, he focuses less on what technically passes and more on what actually works for the people living there.

My Disdain for Open-Concept Living

By Joe Boos, Certified Master Inspector® and NC Licensed Home Inspector

Is open-concept living actually better, or has it just been marketed that way?

Sometimes it works. Often, it doesn’t. In many homes, open-concept living layouts introduce problems with noise, privacy, clutter, and function that aren’t obvious in listing photos. After years of walking through real houses, not renderings or staged showpieces, I’ve come to see open-concept not as a universal upgrade, but as a default choice that’s rarely questioned.

That’s where my skepticism comes from.

People praise open-concept living for light, flow, and flexibility. Those benefits are real. But they come with tradeoffs that the people who actually live there quietly absorb. And more often than not, the design choice itself feels less intentional and more like the path of least resistance.

The Death of Functional Identity

When the kitchen, living room, and dining room combine into one uninterrupted space, you don’t end up with three rooms. You end up with one oversized zone trying to perform three very different roles.

Cooking.
Relaxing.
Eating.
Entertaining.
Working.
Existing.

Each function competes with the others. Furniture placement becomes a negotiation. Lighting has to compromise. Storage never quite lands where it should.

I jokingly refer to them as the “klining” room, but the critique is serious. The space loses its identity. Rooms used to tell you what they were for. Now, open-concept asks the occupants to figure it out on the fly… every single day.

Acoustics Were an Afterthought

Open-concept homes are loud. Not in an obvious way, but in a slow, cumulative way.

The blender runs.
The TV is on.
Someone’s on a call.
Someone else is cooking.

Without walls, sound has nowhere to go but everywhere. Hard surfaces, high ceilings, and wide spans only make it worse. You don’t notice it during a walkthrough. However, you notice it when you live there and realize there’s no quiet place left in the house.

Here’s the thing: walls don’t just divide space. They absorb sound. When designers remove them, they usually don’t redesign acoustics to compensate.

Cooking Smells Don’t Respect “Flow”

In an open-concept layout, the kitchen doesn’t stay in the kitchen.

Whatever you cook becomes part of the entire house. Ventilation helps, but it rarely solves the issue completely. Strong smells linger. Light smells travel. Yesterday’s dinner greets you the next morning.

Boundaries matter. Walls offer one of the simplest and most effective boundaries we have, and removing them has consequences that get downplayed because they aren’t glamorous.

Visual Clutter Becomes Permanent

In a traditional layout, a messy kitchen is just a messy kitchen.

In an open-concept home, it’s the backdrop to everything.

Every dish in the sink.
All appliances on the counter.
Each unfinished task.

There’s no visual separation, no place to rest your eyes. The space demands constant tidiness to feel calm, which works great in photos and far less well in real life. Most households don’t live like a magazine spread… no matter how good their intentions are.

Privacy Was the First Casualty

Walls provide more than structure. They create separation, both physical and psychological.

Open-concept layouts remove the ability to:

  • Close a door
  • Retreat without leaving the space entirely
  • Be present without being involved

This becomes more obvious as homes take on more roles. Work-from-home didn’t pair well with open-concept living. Neither does a household where people operate on different schedules or energy levels.

Sometimes people don’t want to be together. They want to be nearby but separate. Unfortunately, open-concept doesn’t allow for that gracefully.

Furniture Placement Is Always a Compromise

People often describe open spaces as “flexible,” but in practice they’re awkward.

Couches float.
Rugs define imaginary rooms.
Traffic paths cut straight through seating areas.

Instead of designing around comfort, you design around circulation. The room tells you where furniture can’t go more than where it should. Walls give furniture something to work with. Without them, everything feels temporary… even when it isn’t.

It’s Great for Photos. Less Great for Living.

Open-concept homes photograph beautifully.

Wide angles.
Clean sightlines.
Natural light everywhere.

They sell an idea, and that idea performs exceptionally well online. But houses aren’t static images. People live in them. Use them. Test them.

What looks expansive in a listing can feel exposed once the novelty wears off. The difference between a good photograph and a good home becomes clear after the first few months.

Lazy Design and the Loss of a Home’s Soul

This is the part people don’t like hearing.

In many cases, open-concept design feels lazy. Not always, but often.

Instead of thoughtfully arranging rooms, transitions, and proportions, designers remove walls and declare the problem solved. The result is a space that technically checks boxes but lacks character, intention, and hierarchy.

Homes used to have rhythm. Movement. Moments of compression and release. Spaces felt distinct yet connected. When everything opens up indiscriminately, that rhythm disappears.

It’s lazy design that detracts from the soul of a home.

My Honest Take

Open-concept living isn’t inherently wrong. It’s just wildly overused.

It works for some households.
It frustrates others.
And people frequently adopt it without asking the most important question:

How do you actually live in your house?

Walls aren’t the enemy. Thoughtless design is.

And sometimes the most meaningful improvement you can make isn’t tearing walls down… it’s understanding why they were there in the first place.

Common Questions About Open-Concept Homes

What is meant by open-concept?

Open-concept typically refers to a floor plan where the kitchen, living room, and dining room share a single open space with few or no interior walls. The idea emphasizes sightlines, light, and shared space rather than separation by function.

Why is open-concept so popular?

Open-concept layouts photograph well, feel larger during walkthroughs, and align with modern real estate marketing. Psychologically speaking, it gives off the illusion of grandeur… “you’re not cool unless your home is open-concept.”  People often choose them by default rather than as a response to how they actually live in their homes.

What is the difference between open-concept and closed-concept?

An open-concept plan prioritizes visual and physical openness, while a closed-concept plan uses walls and doors to separate rooms by function. Closed layouts give you more control over noise, privacy, and visual clutter, while open layouts emphasize connection and flow.

About the Author
Joe Boos is a Certified Master Inspector®, Licensed Home Inspector, and owner of Realm Inspections. He has spent decades working in and around residential construction and evaluates homes for a living. This perspective comes from inspecting real homes as they’re actually lived in, not from idealized plans or marketing renderings.

Imported Lumber, Your New Construction Home and the Inspection

Derived from an article written by Ted Cushman – Contributing editor Ted Cushman reports on the construction industry from Hartland, Vt.

The recent pandemic has had many ripple effects on the US economy. Along with other factors, it has affected the supply of framing lumber in American lumberyards. Restricted supply of US and Canadian lumber has led suppliers to look to Europe for wood to satisfy the high domestic demand. That means lumber produced in Europe has been showing up in US lumberyards and home centers. It may have different qualities than lumber from North America.

Background. Most lumber in the world market is visually graded. A lumber grader at the sawmill look at each piece and sorts the wood based on visual qualities—in particular, the size and number of knots in the wood. This characteristic is of aesthetic importance, but it also makes a difference in the structural performance of framing lumber in service.

The structural strength of lumber also varies widely by species and where the wood was grown and harvested. That’s why a grade stamp on a piece of framing lumber will specify the wood species and region of origin, not just the visual grade. Sometimes, species are grouped based on their similarity in structural performance. So, you may see a piece of wood marked SYP for southern yellow pine; this designation could refer to several different species of pine that grow in the southern US. “Hem fir,” by the same token, might be hemlock or fir; the two species have comparable performance.

The common species and species groupings in the US market are routinely tested for structural characteristics under a lumber grading program developed by the American Lumber Standard Committee (ALSC), a voluntary standards group based in Washington, DC. The ALSC publishes design values for the various species and grades of lumber, and engineers use those values to design wood structures.

Multi-species wrinkle. Mills in the US usually process wood of a single species or species group from a single region. But imported European lumber appearing in the market these days comes from mills that process multiple species grown in multiple regions. So, for example, wood may bear a grade stamp indicating that the lumber could be 

  • Scots pine from Germany
  • Norway spruce from Germany or Northeastern France
  • Switzerland Douglas fir
  • European larch from Austria, the Czech Republic, or Bavaria

The mill happens to process all those different kinds of logs.

The wrinkle is this: The various kinds of wood coming out of European mills may have very different structural characteristics, even if their visual grading is very similar. While a piece of wood might bear a “Number 2” grade stamp based on its visual characteristics, engineering properties will differ. Properties such as fiber stress in bending, modulus of elasticity, or density (specific gravity) could vary widely within lumber supplies that bear the same stamp. This stamp complicates things for engineers and code officials trying to design or inspect structures built with this Euro lumber.

The wood species identified on this grade stamp are woods processed at a German mill that are not among the four North American categories that the ICC building codes recognize.

Today, the ICC codes in the US don’t formally recognize all those European species and countries of origin. Tables in the IRC refer to four North American categories: southern yellow pine (SYP), Douglas fir, hem-fir, and spruce-pine-fir (SPF). Requirements in the code are based on those species and the properties that go with those species. SPF is the weakest species grouping among the eight design values that engineers use in wood building design.

(Note: Multi-species grading is not limited to European mills only. European import lumber is the most common with multi-species grade stamps in the US market now.)

The West Coast Lumber Inspection Bureau, or WCLB (as identified on this grade stamp), merged operations with the Pacific Lumber Inspection Bureau (or PLIB).

Design values have been published for the European species now appearing in the US. But the design process is complicated by the mixing of species and countries of origin within one grade. To figure out the value for a given design problem, an engineer would have to look at each design value for each imported wood species and select the lowest value for any given property.

Significance to design engineers. In many cases, the design values are lower for the Euro wood than for SPF, the weakest North American category listed in the IRC. In the case of shear wall and connector performance, specific gravity is a controlling factor.  The specific gravity influences fastener performance; the weaker Euro woods could significantly reduce the capacity of a shear wall. Similarly, specific gravity affects the gripping strength of truss gang nail plates. More fragile Euro wood could substantially compromise the resilience of critical truss connections if the design software is not adjusted to take the wood variations into account. And in high-wind regions, the bending strength of lumber is significant for the resistance of walls to the lateral pressure of the wind.

Unless an engineer can determine that import lumber is adequate for a given design, there is a risk that the structure as built may not comply with the code. A recently released addendum to the 2018 Edition of the Design Values for Wood Construction allows engineers to evaluate a design built with European wood varieties. In many cases, the design values for the European lumber currently circulating in the US are lower than for spruce-pine-fir, the weakest code-listed US category.

Significance to builders. Up until now, this lumber strength issue may not have had a recognizable importance to builders. But the problem has been circulating in the code enforcement community and is being noticed by code officials. In the future, inspectors in the field could be flagging critical structures, such as shear walls, constructed with lumber that bears an unfamiliar stamp.

Contaminated Chinese Drywall Inspection

Contaminated Chinese Drywall Inspection: Protect Your Home with Realm Inspections

 

Amidst a wave of Chinese import scares, ranging from toxic toys to tainted pet food, reports of contaminated Chinese drywall have emerged across the American Southeast. Chinese companies use unrefined “fly ash,” a coal residue found in smokestacks of coal-fired power plants, in their manufacturing process. Fly ash contains strontium sulfide, a toxic substance commonly found in fireworks. In hot and humid environments, this can off-gas into hydrogen sulfide, carbon disulfide, and carbonyl sulfide, contaminating a home’s air supply.

The bulk of these incidents have been reported in Florida and other southern states, likely due to the high heat and humidity. Most affected homes were built between 2004 and 2007, especially after Hurricane Katrina when domestic building materials were scarce. An estimated 250,000 tons of drywall were imported from China during that period. Builders used this drywall to construct approximately 100,000 homes in the U.S., leading to severe health and property damage.

Health Effects of Contaminated Drywall

Although not life-threatening, exposure to high levels of airborne hydrogen sulfide and other sulfur compounds from contaminated drywall can cause:

  • Sore throat
  • Sinus irritation
  • Coughing
  • Wheezing
  • Headache
  • Dry or burning eyes
  • Respiratory infections

Inspection Tips from InterNACHI

There are no government or industry standards for inspecting contaminated drywall in homes. However, Realm Inspections, a trusted name in home inspection services, offers expert contaminated Chinese drywall inspections. Homeowners should be cautious of con artists claiming to be certified drywall inspectors. Here are some tips from InterNACHI to identify contaminated drywall:

  • A strong sulfur smell reminiscent of rotten eggs.
  • Exposed copper wiring appears dark and corroded. Silver jewelry and silverware may also corrode and discolor after months of exposure.
  • Inspectors can check labels on the back of the drywall linked to known contaminated manufacturers. Entering the attic and removing some insulation can help with this.
  • Drywall samples can be sent to a lab for sulfur level testing, which is the best but most expensive method.

Dealing with Contaminated Drywall

Contaminated Chinese drywall cannot be repaired. Affected homeowners have two options:

  1. Endure health issues and appliance failures due to corrosion.
  2. Replace the drywall entirely, costing tens of thousands of dollars.

This contamination further reduces home values in an already struggling real estate market. Some insurance companies refuse to cover drywall replacement, causing financial ruin for many. Class-action lawsuits have been filed against homebuilders, suppliers, and importers of contaminated Chinese drywall. Large manufacturers named include Knauf Plasterboard Tianjin, Knauf Gips, and Taishan Gypsum.

The Florida Department of Health tested drywall from three Chinese manufacturers and a domestic sample, finding significant differences. The Chinese samples contained traces of strontium sulfide and emitted a sulfur odor when exposed to moisture and heat, unlike the American sample. The U.S. Consumer Safety Commission and other entities are performing similar tests. Despite these findings, there’s no scientific proof that Chinese drywall is solely responsible for the reported issues.

Regardless of its source, contamination is damaging property and health in the southern U.S. The media frequently attributes the blame to imported Chinese drywall containing corrosive sulfur compounds from Chinese coal-fired power plants. Homes affected by this contamination can suffer severe damage to metal parts of appliances and piping, leading to significant health issues. While no regulations have been issued, more home inspectors are becoming aware of the danger it poses.

Ensure your home’s safety with a comprehensive contaminated Chinese drywall inspection from Realm Inspections. Contact us today to protect your property and health.

 

Radon and New Construction

Why You Should Choose a Radon-Resistant Home During New Construction

Radon-resistant homes offer effective protection against radon gas, a known health hazard. These passive systems, when properly installed during construction, can significantly reduce radon levels. If initial tests reveal radon levels above 4 pCi/L, upgrading to an active system with a vent fan is straightforward and cost-effective.

Key Benefits of Radon-Resistant Homes:

  1. Effective and Affordable: Installing radon-resistant features during construction is simpler and more economical than retrofitting later. Builders can integrate these features using standard materials, ensuring hassle-free installation.
  2. Energy Efficiency: Properly implemented radon-resistant techniques not only mitigate radon but also enhance energy efficiency. This dual benefit can lead to long-term savings on energy bills.

What Are Radon-Resistant Features?

Radon-resistant construction involves several key elements tailored to different foundation types:

  • Gas-Permeable Layer: Positioned beneath the foundation, typically a 4-inch layer of clean gravel allows soil gases to move freely.
  • Plastic Sheeting: Placed over the gas-permeable layer and beneath the slab, this sheeting prevents soil gases from entering the home.
  • Sealing and Caulking: All foundation openings are sealed to minimize soil-gas penetration.
  • Vent Pipe: A PVC pipe extends from beneath the foundation through the house to the roof, safely venting radon and other gases outside.
  • Junction Boxes: Installed in strategic locations, these facilitate easy future upgrades, such as adding a vent fan if necessary.

Cost Considerations

The cost of incorporating passive radon-resistant features during new construction typically ranges from $350 to $500, with potential savings in high-radon areas. Upgrading to an active system with a vent fan, if required, adds about $300. In contrast, retrofitting an existing home can cost between $800 and $2,500.

Conclusion

Opting for a radon-resistant home during new construction is a proactive choice that enhances health and safety. By integrating these features early on, homeowners not only protect against radon but also enjoy potential energy savings. For more information on building a radon-resistant home, consult the EPA’s guidelines or speak with your builder to ensure these essential features are included.

 

Pre-Drywall Inspections

One way to ensure that a house is built according to its specifications is by performing a pre-drywall inspection. “Pre-drywall” refers to a phase during the homebuilding process just after the installation of certain elements – such as the doors, windows, foundation, flooring, wall and roof components, plumbing, and electrical rough-in – and right before the drywall is hung. This in-progress or construction-phase inspection is useful because drywall can obscure some aspects of the interior and make identifying or fixing any problems both difficult and expensive, once the new home is completely finished.
A pre-drywall inspection can be performed after the insulation is installed, which is convenient because it allows the home inspector to determine whether it was done properly. However, the insulation may conceal some components in much of the same way that drywall does.
What is inspected during a pre-drywall inspection?

During a pre-drywall walk-through, the areas of the house that the inspector can check include:

  • the foundation;
  • floor system;
  • roof system;
  • wall system;
  • plumbing system;
  • electrical system;
  • HVAC;
  • exterior wall covering;
  • roof covering; and
  • the interior.
When performing a pre-drywall walk-through, the home inspector may inspect:
  • electrical wiring and junction box placement;
  • framing;
  • foundation slabs, walls and drains;
  • footings;
  • notching of floor joists;
  • firestop material;
  • pier pads;
  • crawlspace;
  • retaining walls;
  • plumbing pipe placement;
  • waterproofing;
  • flashing for windows and doors;
  • wall studs;
  • any missing metal clips; and
  • the placement of HVAC air ducts and registers.
There are many common concerns that a pre-drywall inspection can address.  These questions include:
  • Is there an appropriate number of electrical outlets in every room?
  • Is there a drain pan installed for the washing machine so that water is caught in the event of a leak?
  • Are there wood blocks in places where extra support may be necessary?
An important element to a pre-drywall inspection is the inspection report. Most home inspectors typically include photos and/or video. These are especially beneficial to the client because of the level of detail that they can provide. When it comes to documentation, more is more!  So, as long as you have permission to do so, record everything that you can.
Finally, remember that safety is key. InterNACHI’s Standards of Practice states that no home inspector is required to inspect any component that may compromise his or her safety.
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